Tamu – The Native Market of Borneo

It is not a complete holiday in Sabah if you haven’t been to the local market which was held once in a week. Some district, on weekdays some on weekends.

According to the elders, it originate about 150 years ago or probably longer than that. Well whatever it is, it existed because of the need for necessities such as food, clothing and more.

It is not clear why it was called tamu, some say it derived from the word temu, in malay lingua it means ‘to meet’, some said it refer to ‘guest’ (tamu/tetamu). Back in those days where there is no calendar, the people here uses sun, stars to tell the time or season.

They use palm leaves and fold 7-10 knots on it, every sun rise they unfold the knot and use it as a window to prepare the goods that they intended to trade.

When the time comes men and women will trek for days into the undulating terrain of the jungle crossing rivers carrying their goods inside the traditional backpack called ‘bongun’ they usually travel by large group to avoid being ambushed by the notorious headhunters.

Tamu is a neutral ground for business propose, the tribal leaders take oath and sealed it with their blood placed on the oath stone as an agreement and mutual understanding that no blood will be spilled inside the perimeter.

Apart from business, the traders also use this opportunity to exchange or update information, gossiping, catching up …a friendship that are forged by trade. Some suggest that this is the place where the beginning of the intermarriage between different tribes in Sabah.

Throughout the years, the Tamu has evolved from barter trade to using money, Some items being sold became the trademark of the district, the well known Tamu ground eventually turns out as a popular tourist destination in Sabah.

As for the local it became as a place to find some rare cakes, medicinal plant or hand made items to name a few.

The younger generation are told by their parents look at this place as a reminder of who they are, their root and origin. Tourist walk into this place with their guide as he share the rustic story about the Tamu that slowly drag them into the ambiance of the lost olden days.

Personally the weekend Tamu held at Kota Belud district is the best because the “color” is still there. Last Sunday i took my wife and 7 year old son to Tuaran district, located about 45 minutes drive southwest from the city to find some ‘healthy’ vegetable, well the reason i call it healthy because nowadays it is hard to find vegetable grown without using pesticides, chemicals and what not.

Beside that, i personally felt that it is good to support their small businesses, the vegetable that they sell are normally hard to find at the supermarket or even at Kota Kinabalu wet market because it grows naturally inside the jungle.

If you are in Sabah or planning to come here for your holiday and stumble upon this article, here are the tamu ground that you should not miss.

1) Tamu Tamparuli – every Wednesday 1 hour drive from Kota Kinabalu.

2) Tamu Dongongon – every Thursday and Friday 15-20 minutes drive from Kota Kinabalu.

3) Tamu Kota Marudu – every Saturday 2 1/2 hours drive from Kota Kinabalu.

4) Tamu Kota Belud – every Sunday 1 hour 45 minutes drive from Kota Kinabalu.

5) Tamu Tuaran – every sunday 45 minutes from Kota Kinabalu.

6) Tamu Gaya Street – every sunday at Kota Kinabalu.

Of course the further you travel out from Kota Kinabalu the more authentic it becomes. Visit the Tamu at one of the locations that i mentioned and share what is your experience.

Pic. from The North Borneo Stamp

Published by lostborneotravel

Specialized in Jungle Trekking/Expedition Wildlife Safari and Photography in Maliau Basin, Deramakot Forest reserve, Danum Valley, Imbak Canyon, Long Pa Sia and Kinabatangan River

Leave a comment