Birding in Borneo: A Journey into the Heart of the Wild

By Rajiz

The first time I heard the haunting whoop of a gibbon echo through the Bornean rainforest, I froze mid-step, binoculars still in hand, heart pounding—not from fear, but awe. The air was thick with mist, the canopy overhead alive with movement and mystery. Somewhere above me, a Rhinoceros Hornbill flapped its prehistoric wings through the trees, its profile momentarily etched against the jungle light.

Welcome to Borneo—a living Eden where birding becomes something far more profound than a hobby.

Into the Green Cathedral

Borneo is the kind of place where the word “lush” suddenly feels inadequate. The forests are ancient, layered, and loud. Every rustle, chirp, and distant hoot sends a jolt of curiosity through your spine. For birders, it’s the ultimate pilgrimage site: over 650 species, including more than 50 endemics. Some, like the Bornean Bristle-head, are almost mythical—so unique, they belong to their own bird family.

I spent most of my time chasing feathers across Sabah, the Malaysian state in northern Borneo. My journey took me from the cloud forests of Kinabalu Park to the primeval depths of the Danum Valley, and finally to the more remote Deramakot Forest Reserve—each a jewel in the crown of Southeast Asian birding.

Kinabalu: Birds on the Roof of Borneo

At dawn in Kinabalu Park, the sky turns soft silver as the mountain breathes clouds into the sky. Here, I spotted my first endemic: the Flavescent Bulbul, soon followed by a Whitehead’s Broadbill glowing neon green in the dim understory. The trails were steep and often slick, but every step brought the promise of a lifer.

It’s not just about the birds, though. There’s something almost spiritual about walking beneath trees that have stood for centuries, knowing they shelter creatures found nowhere else on Earth.

Danum Valley: Where the Wild Still Rules

If Kinabalu was magical, Danum Valley was mythical. No paved roads, no phone signal—just raw, dense wilderness. One morning, while scanning the canopy from a 26-meter-high tower, a pair of Great Argus pheasants began their otherworldly call. By night, I joined a local guide to search for owls—scoring a sighting of the Barred Eagle-Owl under a starlit sky.

Here, the birding felt like discovery. Each hour in Danum offered rare encounters, from Bornean Spider-hunters to the show-stopping Black-and-crimson Pitta.

Deramakot: Off the Beaten Track

Deramakot isn’t on every birder’s itinerary—but it should be. It’s a working forest, sustainably logged, and teeming with life. At night, under the beam of a spotlight, we watched a Brown Wood Owl glide silently across a clearing. One late morning, while walking a quiet trail flanked by towering dipterocarps, I caught a flash of deep blue and copper striding confidently through the undergrowth: a Bornean Crested Fireback. Its iridescent plumage shimmered as it moved, head crowned with its namesake crest, tail feathers fanned in understated glory. It paused, looked back at me as if sizing me up, then melted into the forest’s shadow.

Moments like that aren’t just sightings—they’re encounters. They stay with you

What makes this place special is the silence. No crowds, no noise—just the forest, doing what it has done for millennia.

More Than a Checklist

Birding in Borneo changed the way you travel. You will learn patience, presence, and how to listen—not just with ears, but with the heart. You don’t just see birds here; you share their space, however briefly, in a world that’s increasingly rare.

Local guides were key to the journey. Their stories, fieldcraft, and deep respect for the land turned every trek into a lesson—not just in birding, but in coexistence.

Final Reflections

I leave this blog with renewed appreciation for Borneo’s ecological treasures and a deeper commitment to conservation education. Each guest departs with not just a list of lifers but, I hope, a sense of awe and responsibility to protect the natural world. In that sense, this journey has been more than a tour; it has been a shared mission. Borneo gets under your skin. Its birds, its people, its untamed beauty—they stay with you.

If you ever get the chance, pack your boots, your binoculars, and a wide-open heart. Borneo is waiting.

By far the best river in South East Asia to spot Wildlife

So which is the best river in Borneo to spot the wildlife?  The answer is Kinabatangan River. Located at the eastern side of Sabah.

Kinabatangan River is the longest river in Sabah snaking its way about 560 km from the headwater located deep inside the heart of Sabah at Maliau Basin and nearby Trusmadi – Pinangoh mountain range and drains out at the Sulu sea. 

The jungle that grows on both side of the river provides habitat and food for the wildlife. This jungle is home for endangered and the endemic Orang Utan, Proboscis Monkeys, Red Leaf Langurs, Bornean Gibbons and other leased concern primates such as Silvered Langur, Long Tailed Macaque, Western Tarsier and Slow Loris.

If you are more into birding Kinabatangan is perfect place, with 8 species of Hornbills, 11 species of Kingfishers, 16 species of woodpeckers basically it is home to around 200 species of Birds.

Four feline spices with Clouded Leopard being the largest, eight species of Civet cats, Pygmy Elephants, Salt Water Crocodiles that can reach up to 18 foot. This makes Kinabatangan is so special and a must visit destination for wildlife enthusiasts.

At Kinabatangan, most tour packages include three river cruises per day, each lasting around two hours:

Morning Cruise: Usually departs around 6:00 AM. Great for spotting birds, monkeys, and sometimes orangutans.

Afternoon Cruise: Begins around 4:00 PM, ideal for catching wildlife before dusk.

Night Cruise: Starts after dinner (~8:00 PM), focusing on nocturnal creatures like owls, crocodiles and civets.

However, if you’re looking for something more immersive, you can arrange for a customised cruises. These can be longer in duration and cover more remote parts of the river, increasing your chances of seeing rarer species and avoiding crowds. Perfect for wildlife photographers or serious nature enthusiasts!

Just be sure to request this in advance, as custom cruises often require private arrangements and may cost a bit more.

As for the accommodations there are many lodges, homesteads and even resorts along the river within the village area. Sukau, Bilit and Bukit Garam to name a few.

For our Kinabatangan packages, we are using a locally – owned B&B in Sukau. A simple yet charming base right by the river. Private room with ac, attached bathroom and toilet with water heater. This version keeps it warm, authentic and appealing to eco-conscious travellers. A fantastic way to support the local community.

For travelers who prefer a bit more luxury without sacrificing the jungle experience, we also offer stays at a higher-end lodge in Bilit, just a short drive from Sukau. Nestled along the Kinabatangan River, this lodge blends comfort with nature beautifully.

Guests can enjoy:

Spacious air-conditioned rooms with stylish interiors

Private balconies or verandas overlooking the river or gardens

En-suite bathrooms with hot showers and modern amenities

On-site restaurant serving both local cuisine

Lush surroundings with boardwalks, observation decks, and guided nature walks

All of the accommodations are with breakfast, lunch and dinner. Vegan or vegetarian diet is not a problem. 

We specifically choose Sukau Village because of it strategic location, apart from cruising along the main river, you can also cruise at the smaller tributaries nearby namely Resang, Menanggol, Oxbow in search of the wildlife.

The best duration is either 3D2N and if you are looking for specific wildlife 4D3N is a great timing.

How to get there? 

1. Fly from KUL to SDK airport get picked up from the airport at 1300 hrs and drive 2 hours to Sukau Village located next to the river. 
2. Fly from KUL to BKI (Kota Kinabalu International Airport) get a grab car to Inanam long distance bus terminal and get a ticket to either Lahad Datu, Semporna or Tawau. Get off at Kota Kinabatangan and the agency that you’ve booked from will pick you up and send you to Sukau Village. 
3. Get the same bus if you are coming from either Kinabalu Park, Ranau or Telupid.

Looking forward to cruise with you at Kinabatangan River. See you soon

So, what can you expect on a jungle survival trek, you ask?

The jungle won’t just challenge you—it will consume you. It’ll chew you up, spit you out, and then drag you right back in. By the time it’s done with you, your trek is over—but you’ll walk out changed. You’ll reek of sweat and mud, wear your cuts like battle scars, and probably look like you’ve been through hell.

But you’ll also have a huge, satisfied grin across your face, because you did it—with L.O.S.T Borneo. It’s raw, real, and unforgettable. A true survival experience that checks a big one off your Borneo bucket list.

Venture into a non-touristic lowland jungle, located about 2 hours’ drive either northeast or southeast of Kota Kinabalu, for an unforgettable “rough it up” style trekking adventure.

Equipped with just the essentials—limited food, water, and a machete—you’ll hike 5 to 6 hours daily through challenging undulating terrain. With our experienced guide leading the way, you’ll cross rivers, climb jungle-covered hills, and even have the chance to cool off in a secluded waterfall.

This is a raw, back-to-nature experience designed for those seeking real adventure and survival in Borneo.

Our guide will teach you essential hands-on survival skills—including how to use a machete, find food and water, navigate through the jungle, master jungle craft, build a fire, cook in primitive ways, and more—as you trek deep into the wilderness.

Sleeping in a hammock under a tarp in the jungle, with a campfire crackling nearby and the stars overhead, brings both freedom and vulnerability. Every night brings a new setting: hilltops with panoramic views, secluded valleys echoing with night sounds, riversides with the constant rush of water.

Please Note:
Wildlife sightings on this trip are limited due to factors like human noise, movement, and scent, which often cause animals to retreat before they can be seen. Additionally, many animals are naturally camouflaged, blending seamlessly into the jungle environment.

For a better chance to encounter wildlife, we recommend joining our Deramakot Forest Reserve wildlife safari trip specifically designed to maximise wildlife viewing opportunities.

Additional Information:

• Perfect for travellers with vegan or vegetarian dietary as most of the food are greens collected from the jungle.
• Long pants with t shirt and trekking shoes is a go to jungle fashion.
• Bring 35-40 litres backpack, insect repellent, headlamp, long pants, sock and jumper for the night, toiletries, towel and flops. Leave extra space on your backpack to carry 2 bottles of water, hammock, tarpaulin and food that you collected from the jungle.

The Itinerary (2D1N/3D2N/4D3N)

Day 01 at 0800 hrs Meet your guide at your hotel lobby and travel 2 hours 30 minutes using a 4×4 vehicle to the starting point.

1030 hrs Start trekking into the jungle while learning the jungle skills.

1530 hrs Camp. Put up hammock. Collect firewood. Build up fire. Cook. Eat. Sleep.

Day 02 After breakfast, at 0830 hrs trek to the next location and learn more jungle skills. You will trek to the different locations every day depending on how many days you sign up for.

The final day you will trek to the ending point and get transferred from there at 1400 hrs back to Kota Kinabalu.

1600 hrs E.t.a Kota Kinabalu.

It is not a complete holiday in Sabah if you haven’t been to the local market which was held once in a week. Some district, on weekdays some on weekends.

According to the elders, it originate about 150 years ago or probably longer than that. Well whatever it is, it existed because of the need for necessities such as food, clothing and more.

It is not clear why it was called tamu, some say it derived from the word temu, in malay lingua it means ‘to meet’, some said it refer to ‘guest’ (tamu/tetamu). Back in those days where there is no calendar, the people here uses sun, stars to tell the time or season.

They use palm leaves and fold 7-10 knots on it, every sun rise they unfold the knot and use it as a window to prepare the goods that they intended to trade.

When the time comes men and women will trek for days into the undulating terrain of the jungle crossing rivers carrying their goods inside the traditional backpack called ‘bongun’ they usually travel by large group to avoid being ambushed by the notorious headhunters.

Tamu is a neutral ground for business propose, the tribal leaders take oath and sealed it with their blood placed on the oath stone as an agreement and mutual understanding that no blood will be spilled inside the perimeter.

Apart from business, the traders also use this opportunity to exchange or update information, gossiping, catching up …a friendship that are forged by trade. Some suggest that this is the place where the beginning of the intermarriage between different tribes in Sabah.

Throughout the years, the Tamu has evolved from barter trade to using money, Some items being sold became the trademark of the district, the well known Tamu ground eventually turns out as a popular tourist destination in Sabah.

As for the local it became as a place to find some rare cakes, medicinal plant or hand made items to name a few.

The younger generation are told by their parents look at this place as a reminder of who they are, their root and origin. Tourist walk into this place with their guide as he share the rustic story about the Tamu that slowly drag them into the ambiance of the lost olden days.

Personally the weekend Tamu held at Kota Belud district is the best because the “color” is still there. Last Sunday i took my wife and 7 year old son to Tuaran district, located about 45 minutes drive southwest from the city to find some ‘healthy’ vegetable, well the reason i call it healthy because nowadays it is hard to find vegetable grown without using pesticides, chemicals and what not.

Beside that, i personally felt that it is good to support their small businesses, the vegetable that they sell are normally hard to find at the supermarket or even at Kota Kinabalu wet market because it grows naturally inside the jungle.

If you are in Sabah or planning to come here for your holiday and stumble upon this article, here are the tamu ground that you should not miss.

1) Tamu Tamparuli – every Wednesday 1 hour drive from Kota Kinabalu.

2) Tamu Dongongon – every Thursday and Friday 15-20 minutes drive from Kota Kinabalu.

3) Tamu Kota Marudu – every Saturday 2 1/2 hours drive from Kota Kinabalu.

4) Tamu Kota Belud – every Sunday 1 hour 45 minutes drive from Kota Kinabalu.

5) Tamu Tuaran – every sunday 45 minutes from Kota Kinabalu.

6) Tamu Gaya Street – every sunday at Kota Kinabalu.

Of course the further you travel out from Kota Kinabalu the more authentic it becomes. Visit the Tamu at one of the locations that i mentioned and share what is your experience.

Pic. from The North Borneo Stamp